Massillon to Cleveland (?) - 10:20 am

After a good night's sleep and a hearty breakfast, I felt rejuvenated and ready to face the final day of my journey. Deposited once again at the Lake Avenue Trailhead, I faced what should have been an easy day in the saddle. The plan was to ride the towpath to its furthest point of completion, then take a road route on to Lake Erie to finish the ride near Cleveland Browns Stadium.

At the time of my visit, the trailhead housed a deli, ice cream shop, bike shop, restroom and large parking facility. The bike shop was kind enough to provide me with a dab of grease to lube my creaking clipless pedals. Nice folks.

I'm quite fond of the towpath; it's a nice departure from road riding. The trail is laid back, lazily turning and snaking its way along with no worries. Many of its segments were deliberately designed this way and lend a great deal of character to the trail. Remnants of the old canal and its locks add even more to the mix.

You can follow much of my route using this map. Click the link on top of the map to move northward.

That morning I was delighted to be back on flat, calm trail after a taxing Day 3. The sun tried to show its face as I headed north on the fine, crushed stone surface of the Ohio & Erie Canal Towpath. Rain was again forecast for this day, the only constant on my journey. I cruised northward past Canal Fulton and Clinton until I came to my first road route at Center Road. Here trail construction to Barberton had not yet begun, so I took advantage to fill my water bottles at the new facilities before turning right (east) on Center, then left (north) on Van Buren Road. I used this map which appears to show a simple, parallel road route. Somehow I managed a premature left turn, as a crossroad not indicated on the map toyed with my poor navigation skills.

I made my way up into some hills and managed to get on the west side of the old towpath. After cresting my second or third climb, I found myself on top of the local topography where I spotted some tots playing basketball. I pulled into their driveway which sent a few of the bunch scurrying into the house to roust out an adult. A pleasant father-figure appeared and provided me with directions to the trailhead which lay just ahead. As rain began to angrily spatter the ground, I made my way over the hillcrest and descended cautiously to Snyder Road where I turned right and rode a short distance to reach the Barberton Trailhead.

The showers continued while I rode northbound on the Barberton towpath looking for a place to take cover. I stopped under an overpass and took refuge from the rain with some ducks and a stray orange shopping cart that stuck out of the canal water.

This portion of towpath has always intrigued me. The 3-mile segment boasts a canal full of water and yet I feel an emptiness when I ride through this industrial corridor. It's as if something is missing here. Residential housing soon appears to change the landscape, but the hollow feeling remains. Though backyards and decks cozy up to the banks, you sense they are often deserted, as they were on this ride. Aside from the occasional fisherman or two, these waters seem to hold little appeal for local residents. Perhaps that's simply the norm for old canals in the 21st century.

12:35 pm

Weariness had settled in during my break. I was in no hurry to continue on and felt languid. I lingered, then finally gathered my things and mounted my bike. The rain had passed and it was time to roll, but the eagerness that normally spurred me on early in the day was absent. Something was wrong.

They say you grow stronger during a tour. And I'd certainly felt that at the beginning of Day 3. Could the opposite hold true the very next day? Aside from a few climbs that morning, the 21.1 miles I had ridden were flat and easy. It was hard to imagine the climbing had done me in. I continued on.

The open towpath ended at Manchester Road (Rt.93). Across the street the trail continued, but was closed off by a fence that suggested ownership issues had yet to be ironed out. Also across the street, a bit further south, stands an Indian bronze marking the Portage Indian Trail. I turned left (north) onto Manchester to utilize 2.8 miles of roadway to the next trailhead.

I psyched myself up for another tango with the smog producers and followed this route: North on Manchester, right on Kenmore Boulevard, then left (north) on Lakeshore Boulevard in Akron. Another .6 mile north on Lakeshore to Summit Park where I turned left into the park to pick up the trail behind the Recreation Center and softball fields. I believe the entrance lies opposite Crosier Street.

Overall the route was good, with light to moderate traffic during early afternoon. As I recall, there was one glitch when I veered right onto what looked like an exit ramp, but may have been a connecting road (my memory fails here) to get to Kenmore. I was concerned about a narrow bridge I had to cross just prior, but luck smiled on me and traffic thinned as I passed over and quickly exited toward Kenmore.

I gave some thought to topping off my water bottles at Summit Park, but decided against the idea. The water/gatorade concoction had begun to turn my stomach, so I had plenty in reserve. I did manage to choke down an energy bar, despite having no appetite. But I wasn't drinking enough and an insidious fatigue was settling in.

I rode through some broken glass on the trail when I left Summit Park and followed the Ohio-to-Erie over to Thornton Street where it appeared to end. From this point I continued heading northeast on an unofficial pathway that continues alongside the canal over to Bartges Street. This segment is quite picturesque, but on my last two visits it was almost completely deserted, despite the close proximity of apartment buildings.

1:25 pm

I paused to consult my maps and contemplated the 2+ mile road excursion that lay ahead. It would be a dash through the heart of downtown Akron... on a weekday... just after lunch hour. It was time for class again: Bike Messenger 101. But at 28.5 miles into Day 4, I felt like calling off sick instead. Nausea had joined the party and my legs were now questionable. I couldn't stomach my drink mix any longer and hoped some fresh water would provide some relief. Lesson #12: Optimism is a good thing, generally speaking... but you must listen to your body.

I gingerly made my way eastward along Bartges until I came to High Street where I turned left to ride northeast through the gauntlet. I must say that adrenaline is a very powerful hormone. It can override pain and certainly boost performance. I managed to tap into it briefly and sailed along at speed with traffic, thanks in no small part to a slight downhill and some synchronized street lights. No easy task on my clunky mountain goat, however. For the moment I was whole again, smiling as I whizzed by skirts and slacks waiting at crosswalks.

High Street made a slight bend to the left and pitched me over a steep hill. I braked hard to make the left onto North Street. A few hundred yards later I turned into the Mustill Store Trailhead on my right.

1:45 pm

Exhilaration abruptly changed to severe nausea as I wobbled over to the break station and collapsed on a bench. It was time to assess whether I could continue riding. But first I needed to rest and laid down in the vain hope that a nap was possible. It wasn't, but I lay there anyway, unable to ride at that moment. At some point a gentlemen who was mowing the lawn had to ask me to move to a different area, which I did, finally managing to sit up with some difficulty. Taking stock of my symptoms I noted that body aches and fever now joined my growing guest list. I tried to force down some fresh water, knowing that dehydration could prove another factor on this warm day, but my body threatened to send it back, unused. It seemed quite warm... or was it my fever? I wasn't sure.

Now at the 30.6 mile mark, I contemplated throwing in the towel. I realized that from here it was clear sailing all the way to Harvard Road in Cleveland. But I also knew it was foolish to ride with a fever. My support crew would be unavailable before late afternoon, so I rationalized I should take it easy and try to move further north at a slow, easy pace. This was the poorest decision of my trip (ok, the crosswalk incident was also pretty stupid), most likely the result of brain fog from fever and perhaps dehydration as well.

I dumped my water bottles and filled them with plain water -- wishful thinking, I suppose. I managed to mount my bike and ever so slowly began my northern trek on the towpath. I don't remember much of the ride from this point as it all became a haze of concentration and suffering as I crept along at a snail's pace. All my systems were shutting down. I had no power left in my legs, no fuel for energy. My aches were getting stronger and I slowed to a crawl each time my body threatened to demonstrate that nothing remained in my stomach. My hazy noggin, the incompetent emcee, presided over the festivities.

I limped another 15.5 miles, managing to enter the Cuyahoga Valley National Recreation Area and make my way past Peninsula. Just after passing under I-271 I pulled into the Boston Store unable to continue. My legs were cramping now and -- though I now know it was an exaggeration at the time -- I thought I might die.

The sun came out to wish me well as I dumped my carcass on a grassy spot in the shade and waved the white flag. I unpacked my cell phone and called for help. My support team sounded concerned at the other end. I assured her that I should be alive by the time she arrived. I made the call somewhere between 3-3:30 pm, about 20-23 miles short of my destination, Lake Erie in Cleveland.

As I sprawled out on the grass, trying my best not to die. I must have been quite a sight to the folks that passed by this popular spot. I imagine I looked like one of the goons in Night of the Living Dead. Only this goon was sporting cycling jersey and shorts, of course.

A final lesson learned on my tour, appropriately enough, is Lesson #13: Bicycle touring, like life, is also like a box of chocolates. Ay Forrest? Unfortunately, Day 4's sweets were mostly sour.

Day 4 Stats:

Total Miles = 46.1   Trail Miles= ~31.9   Road Miles= ~14.2
Saddle Time = ?
Start: 10:20 am Lake Avenue & Rt. 21 in Massillon
Finish: 3:15 pm Boston Store near Riverview Rd & I-271
Ohio-to-Erie Miles = 306.35